By Rick Stratton
Publisher, Dive News Network
The Campbell River is located mid-way on Vancouver Island on the eastern side, in British Columbia. It has long attracted people to the area because it lies along the important coastal inside passage shipping route. It sports some of the most beautiful, rugged, above ground scenery you will ever come across and that is second only to the incredible underwater environment fraught with marine life, color and adventure. The Campbell River area has drawn outdoorsmen and women to its majestic waterways whether it be the coastal waters, inland lakes or the river systems historically famous for the massive salmon runs each year. Legend has it that the area has a spiritual connection to nature itself and I can tell you from being there that you can feel it in the air.
Most of the diving in this area is still done in Discovery Passage, between the town and Quadra Island. Bill Coltart of Pacific Pro Dive in Courtney, BC operates a dive charter in the Campbell River area. Their full service dive shop and charter service has been operating in the area since 1994; he knows the area because it is literally his backyard. “We have always taken divers out along Quadra Island because the conditions are so consistent year around. “We spend six months out of the year taking divers to the area because the diving is so distinctly different than it is in the southern area,” Coltart says. “There is so much color to be enjoyed by the divers. Even during the winter we can dive that area because it is so protected.”
There are many of dive sites in Campbell River area that divers can sink into. Some of the areas cater to the newer divers but others are more suited for experienced or technical divers. There are many dive sites that offer a bevy of things to explore however the currents can be tricky and incredibly strong. This is a place where divers have to pay attention to the tidal currents. Pacific salmon, orca (killer) whales, seals and sea lions, wolf eels and giant pacific octopus can easily be seen since the vis ranges from 40 ft. to over 100 ft. Each dive around the Quadra Island area is unique. A lot of the marine life will interact with divers. The seals will take the time to hang out with you in some areas and rockfish don’t scatter. The area is famous for its carpets of Strawberry Anemones. The small brightly colored anemones are all over the walls and rocks in this area. Red isn’t the only color here however, bright yellow sponges also make their presence known. Rockfish hang out here along with the famous Puget Sound King crabs. The crabs can be discovered on the various rocky ledges in the area and are so big they often look like something out of a horror movie to those new divers who have perhaps never seen them. Tiger Rockfish covered with tiger stripes also stalk the area giving it a wild jungle feel. Go a little further and you will discover purple and red sea urchins and the occasional giant Sunflower Sea star.
Steep Island Wall
Steep Island Wall is one of the most incredible places to dive on the planet. You enter a forest of thousands of Northern Feather Duster tube worms, some approaching two feet in length. Their burgundy red and blue hues almost glow in the dive light and the “feather-dusters” recede quickly with the slightest touch. A diver can’t dive the Steep Wall without taking some photography time before the tidal currents take over. Earl Lowe who runs Abyssal Dive Charters, located at Quathiaski Cove on Quadra Island says that this is one of his favorite dive sites. “The Steep Island Wall offers divers something they can’t get anywhere else,” Lowe says. “I’ve been doing dive charters in the Campbell River for more than 15 years now and the area is so full of life that there is no place on the reefs where you can touch rocks. It is literally all covered with living things. For instance there at the wall is a large field of Giant Purple Tube Worms that are down 40-90 ft. It is the largest clump I’ve ever seen. I love to take new divers there and underwater photographers just can’t stop taking photos in the area. Sometimes it’s hard to get divers to move on it’s so beautiful.” Coltart adds that the Steep Island Wall is also a big draw for divers that Pacific Pro Dive caters to as well. “We dive on the west side and geologically this is an area that keeps a diver interested from the time they get into the water,” Coltart says. It is almost like diving in a cavern. You get into huge amounts of rockfish and lingcod hanging out in one of the largest kelp forests I have ever seen.”
The Copper Cliffs
The Copper Cliffs are sheer cliff walls that dramatically dips down 300 ft. into an abyss filled with color and life. The cliffs extend over 100 ft. below the surface and empties out into a large collection of boulders. Down at these depths are some impressive cloud sponges several feet across that are hiding rockfish schools, lingcod and several species of crab including the Puget Sound king crab. It is important to note that the currents on and around the cliffs can be surprisingly dangerous. Divers have reported unusual current activity such as currents changing direction by 180 degrees as you ascend 20 ft.
Here Black Cormorants dwell in bull kelp that is so thick you get the feeling you are in dense under brush. Giant Plumose Anemones abide here like huge balls of cotton candy gathering food on the current. Orange cup corals can be found on the Copper Cliffs and Cloud Sponges of various shades give the diver that floating in heaven feel. Wolf-eels guard the area and Spiny Dogfish Sharks make it clear that this is their home.
Middle Natch Island
Middle Natch Island is an area about a 25 minute boat ride from Quadra Island where there are a lot of sea lions in the winter time and it is a great place for interaction between divers and sea lions. This area is a marine bird sanctuary there isn’t a lot of anchor traffic making it a great place for divers to find wolf eels and lots of octopus. “I like taking divers out to Middle Natch because at 120 ft. you get into the cloud sponges and color making it a great deeper dive but for less experienced divers, you can drop them off at 40-50 ft. and they get to see some of the most incredible the marine animals,” says Coltart. “You can literally take divers of all skill sets into that area and cater to everyone.” Coltart adds that the above the water scenery is incredible too. “You are on the middle of the Strait of Georgia and surrounded by snowcapped mountains with eagles flying by and cormorants on the shore…it is a throwback to when more of the west was wild. It is so peaceful.”
The Campbell River area offers divers from all over the world a chance to dive into waters infested with color and literally overrun with life only found here. From the wolf eels to the Giant Pacific Octopus to the famous six gilled sharks, the coastal waters off of British Columbia, and specifically Campbell River are an escape
into another world. ■
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