by Sammy Cimeno
Strange things happen in Northern California on April 1 each year. Campgrounds and motels that were unoccupied most of the winter are now sold out. Coastal roads once empty are bustling with traffic. Large numbers of employees are mysteriously absent from their jobs. A case for the X-Files? No, it’s simply opening day of abalone season.
Northern California divers are indeed fortunate to have one of the ocean’s tastiest treats in our local waters – the red abalone. These mollusks are abundant in our State’s northern waters and, with a little bit of knowledge, they are easy to harvest and make a mighty fine meal. What follows are a few practical tips to help you collect and cook your catch.
The Rules of Engagement
Abalone may only be harvested north of the Golden Gate Bridge. The season limit is 24 and daily bag and possession limit is 3. A punch card and individual tags along with your fishing license are required. You must be within 500 yards of your fishing license and punch card at all times. Your license and punch card may be left on shore or in a boat, only if you are a diver. You must complete your punch card and tag your abalone immediately when you come ashore or return to your boat. While taking abalone you must have a legal abalone iron and measuring devise in your possession. Irons must be smooth with no sharp edges, less than 36” long, and at least 3⁄4” wide and 1⁄16” thick. Your local dive or fishing shop can fix you up with these. Abalone may only be taken by breath-hold divers and shore pickers – no scuba allowed.
During August of 2011 most invertebrates, including abalone, off the Sonoma Coast experienced a massive die-off due to an abnormally heavy plankton bloom. This prompted the DFG to close the abalone fishery in Sonoma County; while Marin, Mendocino and Humboldt Counties were only moderately affected and were not closed. The DFG will reopen the season as normal April 1 this year, with two new rules. Due to heavy diving pressure, Fort Ross area will remain closed until June 1. The DFG has also clarified its position on how abalone are kept – each diver’s catch must be in a separate container. Consult the DFG’s website or the current Ocean Fishing Brochure for a complete description of the fishery’s complex rules, www.dfg.ca.gov.
The Gear
First you will need a good fitting 7 mm or ¼ inch wetsuit. Of course, a good fitting mask, fins and snorkel will also be needed. Weight yourself so you are neutral around 10 feet. You will also need a float, a way to hold your catch, and a way to anchor your float while you are diving. A mesh covered inner tube works well as a float and game bag; otherwise an inflatable mat or boogie board (diver’s mat) and goodie bag will work. Generally, it is easier to swim longer distances on a diver’s mat or boogie board. You may anchor your float with a kelp anchor (a length of line with a brass clip) or a small bottom anchor. The latter is preferred in the early season when there is little kelp.
Finding Your Abalone
The next task is to select your dive site. Depending on your skill level, every cove, beach and rocky point is a potential dive site. You will need to check with the Department of Fish and Game and avoid taking game in the new Marine Conservation Areas. If you can dive to 30 feet, you will get your limit of abalone at any entry on the North Coast. If you can only dive to 10 or 15 feet you will have to select your sites more carefully. In the early days of the season many abalone may be found in shallow water right off the area’s most popular beaches. Later in the season, you will have to swim, hike, paddle, or motor a bit further to find plentiful abalone in shallow water.
Once in the water look along drop-offs and at the outer edge of kelp beds. Try following the drop-off or kelp to the bottom and begin your search there. New divers tend to hover well above the bottom and don’t see any abalone – you must get close to the bottom, usually in the deepest portion of the local terrain. Look on rocks at the edge of sand channels or in cracks. Often abalone are found upside down, back in cracks. Once you spot your abalone, make an estimate of its size with your gauge. Don’t touch the abalone at this point or it will suck down and you will never get it off the rock.
Try grabbing a piece of kelp and calming yourself while you consider how to pluck your abalone. This allows you to hold your breath longer, and gives you more time to select the optimal ab iron placement. In one swift motion insert your abalone iron between the abalone’s foot and its rock, and pop the ab off. Remember, you are not prying the abalone off; you are simply breaking the suction that holds it to the rock.
Once on the surface, remeasure your catch. A legal abalone will not fit through your gauge in the longest dimension. Replace short abalone where you found them, and hold it to the rock until it sucks down. Remember this is supposed to be fun. Try to resist the urge to take the first ab you see; it is often shorter than ones you will find later. Also, try to take some time to explore the reef, you will be surprised what you will see when you are not focused on abalone.
Cleaning Your Catch
Abalones are gastropod mollusks – non-segmented invertebrates with a mantle, gills, a rasping tongue, and a muscular foot. Gastropod translates to “stomach-footed”, and cleaning an abalone is a small lesson in marine biology. First insert your abalone iron on the flat side of the abalone and separate the muscle from the shell. The large dense part of the abalone is the foot. The largest organ surrounding the foot is the reproductive gland (girls are green or blue, boys are pink or beige); so these mollusks should really be called “reproductive gland-footed”. The digestive gland is underneath the reproductive gland and wraps around the foot. Abalones are considered primitive animals since the digestive tract is circular and they defecate on their own head. Most of us trim away all of the organs and black skin, although they are all edible.
Cooking your Catch, or Not.
Most of us slice, pound and fry our abalone. Marleen’s recipe below is my favorite. Also included is a recipe for pickled abalone, a kind of ceviche. Here the abalone is cooked with acid and not heat. Another way to serve abalone is simply not to cook it at all. Slice the abalone thin (perpendicular to the direction you would use for steaks), do not pound, dip in a little wasabi and soy sauce and enjoy.
Sammy’s Marinated Abalone

For those seeking something different I urge you to try this recipe. The abalone should not be pounded! Slice the ab with the grain (perpendicular to the direction used to slice stakes) about 1/8 inch thick.
1 bottle Pickappeppa (mild pepper sauce from Jamaica)
1/2-cup white or red wine vinegar
Juice of 4-6 limes (1/2 cup bottled lime or lemon juice will do)
1 sliced medium onion
1/2 sliced sweet pepper (or hot peppers if you prefer)
3-4 smashed cloves of garlic
Tabasco sauce to taste (skip if you add hot peppers)
1 cleaned abalone
Combine all ingredients and refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours. It’s better after 24 hours, but the impatient among us may consume it earlier. This was adapted from a recipe for Cayman conch.
Marleen’s Fried Abalone
My favorite way to prepare abalone was invented by one of my dive buddies, Marleen Sacks. First remove the foot from the shell and trim off the black “slime.” Next slice into ¼ inch steaks, and pound until tender (not until mush). Dice the pounded steaks into about ¾ inch squares, and discard any bits that were poorly pounded and hard. Dip into beaten egg (seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon zest), and then into cracker crumbs. Fry in hot oil until golden brown, about a minute on each side, and drain on paper towels. Do not overcook. The lemon zest adds a bit of character.
California Abalone Season to Open With Two Changes
In spite of the invertebrate die-off Sonoma County experienced in August of 2011, the 2012 abalone season is scheduled to begin April 1 in Northern California as usual. This year, there are two small changes to the law governing the taking of abalone. One clarifies how divers can store abalone prior to tagging, and the other delays the season for part of Sonoma County for two months (April 1 to June 1). The text of the new law follows:
Open Season: In the Fort Ross area bounded by the mean high tide line and a line drawn due south true from 38°30.63’ N, 123°14.98’ W (the northern point of Fort Ross Cove) and a line drawn due west true from 38°29.45’ N, 123°11.72’ W (Jewel Gulch, south boundary Fort Ross State Park) abalone may only be taken during the months of June, August, September, October and November. In the remainder of the geographic area defined in subsection (a) above, abalone may be taken only during the months of April, May, June, August, September, October and November (see map below).
Abalone Possession and Transportation: Individuals taking abalone shall maintain separate possession of their abalone. Abalone may not be commingled in a float tube, dive board, dive bag, or any other container or device, until properly tagged. Only after abalones are properly tagged, as described in Section 29.16 (b), Title 14, CCR, may they be commingled with other abalone taken by another person.
Click the map to zoom.
