By Mike Ange

Plunging into the clear, warm, sub-tropical waters and descending through a cloud of bubbles we were thrilled to see the signature satellite dishes tilted at odd angles along the top of this pristine shipwreck.  The date was 27 May 2009 and the USNS Vandenberg had just been scuttled by the detonation of 42 high explosives charges only 15 minutes before our descent.  As a part of the clearance dive teams, I was fortunate to be on the first 3-man dive team to ever see the wreck of the USNS Vandenberg after she slipped beneath the surface.  Over 2 ½ years later, the wreck, laying in 45 m of sea water (150 fsw), holds even more allure and interest for divers of every level now than it did then.

With king post ascending to within 50 feet of the surface and significant superstructure in only 60 feet, this, the world’s second largest artificial reef, literally holds something for everyone. The wreck is bathed in the sub-tropical waters of the southern Florida Keys with temps ranging from the low 70s in winter to the high 80s in the summer. Vis averages between 50 and 100 plus feet depending on conditions.  Currents on the site are variable and can make the dive a much more advanced endeavor, but there are days when there is virtually no current at all.  Open water and less experienced divers can complete a fantastic dive on this wreck without ever exceeding 60 feet. The mooring buoy attached just above the pilot house will deposit divers on a part of the superstructure equipped with a series of cut out plagues representing many of the donors who helped to sink the ship.  Swimming toward the stern, the ship has a lot of relief harboring a vast collection of marine life. 

Barracuda, of course, swarm to this wreck as they do to all tropical wrecks, but you will also find a collection of reef fish owing to the close proximity of the wreck to the warm water reefs surrounding Key West. Angel fish, butterflies and yellow tail snapper are in vast supply. Large parrots and even, unfortunately, the occasional lion fish may also be seen on this wreck.  If there is no current, it is a fairly simple swim past the ship’s signature satellite dishes aft, to the gaping hole of the balloon hanger.  This massive room once launched weather balloons transporting sensor technology for the ship’s primary mission during its life as an Air Force ship doing missile tracking.  Now, it is filled with thick schools of tropical fish who seek the shelter of its wide open spaces.  If there is a current, you may have to slip slightly below 70 feet to stay along the ship’s structure and reach this part of the vessel. 

For the advanced diver, the first main deck can be reached at about 85 feet and this is the depth where the vast majority of the exterior of the ship can be seen.  Just below this deck, there is a covered companion way on both sides of the ship stretching for about 70% of its length.  At this level, you can circumnavigate the entire length of the 518 foot ship, providing you have the stamina and the gas supply.   The ship has been significantly opened up to allow both marine life and divers to see inside, but it is still a shipwreck and many of the added openings are at or near the maximum recreational limit so trained divers must be extremely careful entering this ship and the untrained simply shouldn’t go.  However, peering inside will reveal an even larger abundance of marine life and also some interesting structures.  Perched atop the main deck is a square box like room nearly amid ship with a false floor.  The decking is all but gone now and what remains is the support grid positioned to allow hundreds of heavy computer cables to be run to the various devices used to track missile launches, NASA’s first space shots, and other atmospheric wonders.  On a bright sunny day with good vis, take the time to peer up from this position and see the light filtering through the satellite dishes which from below frequently look like giant bowls filled with schooling fish. 

In spite of the numerous cut and blown holes that were necessary for the ships sink plan, the wreck still has great potential for training limited and full penetration divers as well as great allure for those already certified.  In only 105 feet of water, there are two companion ways to each side but inside the ship which provide a straight linear nearly 470 feet of penetration with a few exits along the way.  This is the technical wreck instructor’s dream training location as the entire passageway creates a minor restriction and passes some of the key focal points to see in this wreck.  Extending nearly 70 feet from top to bottom, the AMR space contains scaffolding, ladders and grids that seem to attract marine life like a magnet and that is just the beginning of where you can go inside the ship. 

There are several dive operators running nearly daily trips to the Vandenberg.  Most will require a dive guide for divers that do not hold advanced certification.  The guides are available on nearly every run at usually a very small cost which makes this dive still well worth the price.  It is difficult to get support for technical diving in Key West, although this is rapidly changing.  SubTropic Dive Center on Roosevelt has been purchased by new owners and will offer technical gases, technical charters, and full support for technical and CCR divers when it reopens in January as SEAduction of Key West. ■

The Vandenberg Artificial Reef has won North America’s most prestigious ecotourism award, the Society of American Travel Writers’ Phoenix Award. The award, which began in 1969, recognizes conservation, preservation, beautification and environmental accomplishments as they relate to travel. The Vandenberg project was among four North American tourism projects chosen. “The creation of the Vandenberg Reef is a profound example of how business, environmental and marine biology experts can work together to promote and maintain a valuable infrastructure that attracts tourists from around the world.” the Phoenix committee said. For more info visit www.ussvandenberg.com.

The USS Vandenberg has had many purposes in its life, but has recently taken on a completely new purpose. After its successful sinking in May 2009, the Vandenberg is part transformative art gallery, part artificial reef thanks to efforts of Austrian artist, Andreas Franke.

A year after Franke explored the Vandenberg, he developed an artistic concept which had never been done before. He saw his images, taken on his dive, filled with stories via people added to the deserted decks. His work became the world’s first underwater transformative art exhibit on an artificial reef.

The grand ship had moved him. Now, his artwork is doing the same for divers from all over the world who come to explore the depths of the Vandenberg, because his artwork is being displayed on the popular artificial reef.
In 2010, Franke did several dives and shot multiple pictures. This was the beginning of “Life below the Surface”, Franke concept of an underwater art gallery. When he returned home to Austria and examined the photos, Franke decided he wanted to add life to the ship. He says there was so much marine life around the ship it seemed natural to add people to his photos.

Franke created composite images taking the photos he shot underwater and layering them with images of people he took in his studio. What developed were these otherworldly images appearing to make the ship come alive. After seeing what he had created, Franke took it one step further and requested the artwork be actually hung on the ship itself.

The Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary agreed.

In August 2011, the artwork was hung and divers can now benefit from a special experience. There are 12 images placed on the Vandenberg which was sunk 100 ft. below sea level approximately seven miles south of Key West.

The photos show every day scenes from past times. The images are encased between sheets of Plexiglass with a stainless steel frame, and a silicone seal keeps out the water. The images are attached to the ship by strong magnets granting damage free removal after the exhibition ends.

Captain Joe Weatherby, co-owner of Reef Makers, and instrumental in the sinking of the Vandenberg, worked for 12 years securing permits, raising money and preparing the ship for its May 2009 sinking. He met with Joanne Delaney, who handles permitting for the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary in order to help with the project. “I knew the permitting process for reefs,” says Weatherby. “I met with the Marine Sanctuary representatives in order to facilitate the process and discovered permits would be necessary if we were doing work on the ocean bottom.”

Weatherby says the images were installed where all the dive boats and dive masters take their divers. Divers can easily pull themselves along the railing and see the exhibit,” Weatherby said. Weatherby encourages dive charter operators to take advantage of showing the exhibit to divers visiting the area. “It is a one of a kind exhibit and won’t be there forever.”

For more info on the exhibit visit www.staudinger-franke.com/vandenberg/view/galery.php ■

Herbert Nitsch
Constant Weight Apnea
124m
Variable Weight Apnea
142m
No-Limits apnea
214 m

Natalia Molchanova
Constant Weight Apnea
101m
Constant Weight Apnea without fins
62m
Free Immersion Apnea
85 m
Static Apnea
8 min 23 sec
Dynamic Apnea with fins
225m
Dynamic Apnea
without fins
160m

William Trubridge
Constant Weight Apnea Without Fins
101m
Free Immersion Apnea
121m

Annelie Pompe
Variable Weight Apnea
126m

Dave Mullins
Dynamic Apnea
Without Fins
218 m

Tanya Streeter
No-Limits Apnea
160m