Whale Sharks and Cenotes of Riviera Maya

Shimmering windows of light shone down through a lush jungle canopy into a clear freshwater pool creating thin beams of dancing light bouncing gracefully off a floor of stone. The ambient light reflected their radiance into a cavernous aquatic opening with low wide passages leading into other sizeable rooms. We kept our buoyancy under control so not to damage delicate stalactites hanging from the ceilings as we swam down a passage. Equally best to avoid was the fine layer of silt coating the bottom.

With ease my oldest daughter Jen, on loan from her family to use as a model, followed me and our cave-diving guide deeper into the cave system. The dark textured walls and rock formations we swam by intrigued our curiosity. Shining my light on a structure revealed a stunning geological pattern of layered minerals pressed together forming a collage of colorful earth tones. I’m sure the countless divers who passed here before me, passed right by this hidden wonder. From then on Jen and I used out our lights and peered into every crevice and crack along the way.
We continued to follow the guide along a pre-set line laid out for visiting divers through a cloudy halocline (caused when salt and freshwater mix). Moving through the murkiness, visibility once again seemed limitless. Each time we came to a jungle opening, groups of divers dangled from the surface, probably receiving advice from their guide or adjusting equipment. After passing a small boat and a few tiny fish in the shallows, we encountered more stalactites stretching down from the ceiling to within inches of the floor. The guide took us into a large room where he had us remove our regulators. The air was surprisingly good. Giant round tree roots hung from the ceiling, barely touching the water. Almost the entire ceiling was covered with miniature icicle-like stalactites. As we made our way back to the main
corridor, I shone my dive light down several dark deeper passages, off the tourist route, wishing I had a cave certification and the gear to investigate further.
The highlight of our dive was seeing nature’s unusual formations, and the stalactites and stalagmites. To differentiate between the two, I remember what Tallen, my youngest daughter once told me, when she guided tours through terrestrial caves back home; “Mom, just think that stalactites hold tight to the ceiling and stalagmites might reach the ceiling.”
This was just one of hundreds of similar sink-holes formed thousands of years ago, along the southern part of the Yucatan Peninsula, on the eastern side of Quintana Roo, Mexico. The area is full of privately owned cave systems, aka ‘cenotes’, visited daily by groups of divers. A guide however, must accompany each group (one guide to 3 divers). Jen and

I enjoyed the additional insight we received from our local guide, especially when he added a touch of history about the area. An entry or dive fee is charged at most locations and divers are required to have a dive certification. Dives can be arranged at any dive shop or resort.
It was early summer when Jen and I visited the Riviera Maya. For Jen it was a refreshing holiday from the stresses of work. For me, it was a chance to visit historical Mayan ruins and archeological sites, check out the kayaking and enjoy the area’s excellent traditional Mayan food.
We flew into Cancun, one of the largest cities, on the northern part of the peninsula. A modern highway connects the north and the south (81 miles) with Playa del Carmen and Tulum in between. Numerous resorts line the highway, offering inexpensive to luxurious accommodations for any budget.
The island of Cozumel, another popular diving hot spot, is located midway, just off Playa del Carmen. Ocean diving takes place all along the mainland coast and on the west side of Cozumel. Several resorts and dive operators offer day trips to Cozumel.
Jen and I went on two ocean dives during our stay, joining a group through Scuba Libre. Many of the operators provide everything needed for diving. Green sea turtles and schools of colorful fish held our interest and made great photographic subjects. We found most
of the sites along the mainland and Cozumel were drift dives and also discovered it was easier to just go with the flow. Carrying a camera, the current gave new meaning to the phrase drive by shooting!
After the drift diving, “Donde esta el bar? (Where is the bar?) no, I mean “Donde esta el cenotes? (where is the cave?), was one of the first Spanish phrases we learned.
When not ocean or cave diving Jen and I checked out one of the many excursions offered by Alltournative Adventure and Ecological Tours for a back-country, through the jungle, cave snorkeling trip. The terrain we crossed over reminded me of Australia’s outback, requiring an army-style truck to traverse the dirt and gravel obstacle course

road. The cave opening seemed to be only a sliver of an opening, but the cool water was so refreshing!
Another tour we enjoyed was a whale shark snorkeling trip. The tour company picked us up at our hotel (most tour companies pick up) and transported us to a harbor north of Cancun. After an hour boat ride, we came upon a dozen or so whale sharks feeding on krill and surface plankton. The tour boats would put two in at a time with a guide, ahead of the huge fish in its path. There we waited until the shark swan by. At times they would slow enough to give photographers time to snap off a few frames. At the end of the tour, before heading back, the boats moored at a shallow stretch of reef, full of fish, sea turtles and sea fans.
It is hard to visit such a unique place like the Mayan Riviera without indulging in the local entertainment at Xcaret for a dinner show or visiting the Myan ruins in Tulum. Shopping is best in Playa del Carmen, and when you are finished, you can have a Starbucks coffee or a superb Mexican entrée at Los Rancheros.
For our return visit Jen and I are thinking of renting a car and driving south to explore the dive options and check out more ancient Mayan cultural sites. We may even
bring our husbands! ■
Trip Planning:
Travel Tips: Drink only bottled water, wear biodegradable sunblock and a sun hat. Don’t forget the mosquito spray (natural stuff) and check with dive operators as to any dive gear needed. Lonely Planet offers informative books on the area
www.lonelyplanet.com. Most of the guides speak several languages. The climate is
semi-tropical with an average yearly temperature of 77-86F. Currency is the Mexican Peso.